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If you are like every single human being on earth, you will find that your body measurements fall between two, three, four different pattern sizes.
So, how do you pick the right sewing pattern size when you're in between sizes?
Those of you who are following along in all of my videos, know that sewing patterns are one of the hardest things to learn how to do.
Let’s take a look at the back of one of the pattern envelopes, you will see that your bust, waist, and hip measurements fall over several ranges. So learning your way around this will help you pick which pattern size to cut from the envelope.
The general rule is that you go with the bust measurement because that's the hardest thing to alter whilst the rest of the pattern is a bit easier.
That is true, but I want to dive in on this subject and talk you through the better ways you can assess your patterns to get a better result.
The first thing you need to look at and consider is your skill level.
As a beginner, you will probably make the one standard stock size as it is straight out of the packet and pick your closest standard size. I definitely recommend this for beginners if it's your first few garments.
However, if you're going to the next level, and you're starting to look at fitting and tailoring your garments, adjusting them, combining two sizes, or doing different fit alterations, you also need to consider the following points — are you going with just the one size as is, or will you be making adjustments to it?
So depending on which level you are will determine on the ways that you look at it from down here.
Now the next thing that you want to look at is, how much ease is on the design of the pattern?
What is ease? The ease is the amount of room a garment allows you beyond the measurements of your body. So choosing the right style of design can help you in your fitting and it'll make your job easier.
We always want that because it will tell you whether you have enough room to fit a different body shape, and between sizes into a pattern.
So how do we know if our pattern has extra room for ease? Looking at the back line drawings of your pattern you can find the amount of ease either by what's written on the pattern envelope or you can measure the pattern yourself.
Let me give you some examples here. My body shape, I have a standard bust. My waist is always smaller and my hips are always bigger than my bust and waist. It's usually about two sizes bigger than my waist, and maybe one size bigger than my bust.
Now for me, an A-line style or anything with a fuller skirt is going to be preferable and far easier for me to fit. So picking a style that suits your body shape is going to make it so much easier for you when you're a beginner to learn about fitting.
So look at your skill level. Are you going straight stock size, standard size, or are you next level? Because it will affect what size you can choose when you're in between.
And it is best to choose designs, choose styles that will be easier for you to fit around your body shape. If you are next level and starting to combine two sizes, always look for the easiest part of the garment to fit.
Choosing the right pattern piece is one of those things that you do not learn quickly. You do not learn in just a weekend workshop or anything like that and get the hang of it.
It is something that takes a lifetime to be honest, you just slowly get better and better at it. So look at it that way, and don't stress about it.
Until next time...
Evelyn xx